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Fenouil

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Coordinates: 45°31′46″N 122°40′56″W / 45.52944°N 122.68222°W / 45.52944; -122.68222
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Fenouil
Map
Restaurant information
Established2005 (2005)
Closed2011 (2011)
Food type
Street address900 Northwest 11th Avenue
CityPortland
StateOregon
Postal/ZIP Code97209
CountryUnited States
Coordinates45°31′46″N 122°40′56″W / 45.52944°N 122.68222°W / 45.52944; -122.68222

Fenouil was a French[1] and Pacific Northwest restaurant in Portland, Oregon.[2] The business operated from 2005 to 2011.

Description

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Grant Butler of The Oregonian described Fenouil as an "enormous", two-story French restaurant next to Jamison Square in northwest Portland's Pearl District.[3] Willamette Week said the restaurant had "coveted see-and-be-seen" patio seating and three "cozy" fireplaces.[4] Eater Portland's Erin DeJesus described the restaurant as a "French-meets-contemporary-Northwest spot".[5] Fenouil has also been described as an "upscale dining concept".[6]

The menu included escargots, frog legs, and wild boar.[7] According to The New York Times, the "sleek" Fenouil served "brasserie classics" like roast duck with Armagnac prunes and steak frites, pumpkin and mushroom gnocchi, and lobster beignets.[8] The 220-seat[9][10] restaurant served Pacific Northwest cuisine, as of 2010.[11][12]

Fodor's said, "The large stone fireplace, expansive bar, bistro menu, and widely revered spring-onion soup are a few of the reasons patrons keep coming back to this warm and elegant two-story restaurant. Notable entrée choices vary by season, but two reliable crowd pleasers are the grilled Kobe sirloin and the wood-fired duck breast with Armagnac-soaked prunes. There's live music on Friday nights. At the end of each month the chef creates an all-inclusive "regional dinner" that explores foods from a unique culinary region."[13]

History

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Fenouil operated from 2005 to 2011.[5][14][15] The restaurant was owned by Chris and Tyanne Dussin (Dussin Group).[6][16] Pascal Chureau was the opening chef.[17] He left in 2010.[18] Jake Martin became executive chef effective February 15.[19][20] Kristen D. Murray, described by Michael Russell of The Oregonian as one of city's "top" pastry chefs, worked at the restaurant.[21] Ken Forkish developed a raisin-pecan bread to accompany the restaurant's cheese plate.[22]

Molly Hottle of The Oregonian attributed the restaurant's closure to the economy.[23]

Reception

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In 2006, writers for Willamette Week appreciated the menu but said the restaurant "feels more like a shiny-new Bridgeport Village suburban eatery than an authentic French restaurant".[4] Moon Oregon (2007) said Fenouil was "simultaneously flamboyant and studied", and "visually one of the most impressive" restaurants in the city.[24] In 2010, the newspaper's Deeda Schroeder said "the kitchen has no problem consistently turning out beautiful food. Whether it's a Saturday dinner or a late workday lunch, there's no question the cooks have what it takes to create tiny, work-of-art eats".[25]

The restaurant was rated three and a half out of four stars in the eighth edition of Best Places: Portland (2010),[26] and three out of three stars in the seventeenth edition of Best Places Northwest (2010).[27] Fodor's Oregon (2011) says "Popular destinations like Bluehour, Fenouil, and Andina have cemented the reputation of Northwest Portland's Pearl District as a restaurant hot spot."[28] Grant Butler included Fenouil in The Oregonian's 2016 list of "97 long-gone Portland restaurants we wish were still around".[3] In 2016, Michael C. Zusman of Willamette Week said the "fancy, Francophonic Fenouil flopped".[29] Allecia Vermillion of the Seattle Metropolitan called the restaurant "late" and "lovely" in 2018.[30]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Dresbeck, Rachel (March 1, 2011). Insiders' Guide® to Portland, Oregon, 7th. Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN 978-0-7627-7477-7. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  2. ^ "Fenouil". The Oregonian. June 24, 2010. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  3. ^ a b Butler, Grant (January 1, 2017). "Tasty memories: 97 long-gone Portland restaurants we wish were still around". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on December 28, 2020. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  4. ^ a b "Our 100-plus Favorite Restaurants (A-G)". Willamette Week. October 18, 2006. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  5. ^ a b DeJesus, Erin (April 1, 2011). "Pearl District's Fenouil Calls it Quits, to Shutter this Sunday". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on May 8, 2017. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  6. ^ a b Hinton, Marc (October 28, 2019). A History of Pacific Northwest Cuisine: Mastodons to Molecular Gastronomy. Arcadia Publishing. ISBN 978-1-62584-658-7. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  7. ^ "Teaching Taste". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  8. ^ Laskin, David (April 15, 2007). "36 Hours in Portland, Ore". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  9. ^ Russell, Michael (March 2, 2012). "Davis Street Tavern group takes over former Fenouil space". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  10. ^ DeJesus, Erin (March 2, 2012). "Davis St. Tavern Team Opening jamison in Fenouil Space". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  11. ^ "Restaurant review: Revitalized Fenouil a feast for the eyes and the palate". The Oregonian. May 7, 2010. Archived from the original on April 15, 2022. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  12. ^ "Happy Hour of the Week: Fenouil". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on December 17, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  13. ^ "Fenouil Review - Portland Oregon - Restaurant | Fodor's Travel". Fodor's. Archived from the original on April 15, 2022. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  14. ^ Tepler, Benjamin (April 5, 2011). "Au Revoir, Fenouil". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on September 25, 2020. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  15. ^ Culverwell, Wendy (April 1, 2011). "Dussins pull plug on Fenouil". Portland Business Journal. Archived from the original on April 4, 2011. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  16. ^ "Restaurant review: Lucier". The Oregonian. December 10, 2008. Archived from the original on November 18, 2021. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  17. ^ Russell, Michael (April 2, 2011). "Fenouil restaurant in Pearl District to close Sunday, the Dussin Group announces". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on April 15, 2022. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  18. ^ Beck, Byron (January 15, 2010). "Fenouil's Chef Pascal Chureau Moving On to New Project". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  19. ^ "Two high-profile restaurants refire: Lucier and Fenouil on the rise". The Oregonian. January 21, 2010. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  20. ^ Russell, Michael (January 23, 2015). "The Fireside restaurant in NW Portland is missing a spark (review)". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  21. ^ Russell, Michael (July 24, 2014). "Maurice, a pleasing pastry oasis in downtown Portland (review)". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on March 9, 2020. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  22. ^ Forkish, Ken (September 20, 2022). Evolutions in Bread: Artisan Pan Breads and Dutch-Oven Loaves at Home [A baking book]. Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed. ISBN 978-1-9848-6037-8. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  23. ^ Hottle, Molly (April 4, 2011). "Northwest Portland roundup: Fenouil shuttered, filmmaker tracks pelican, First Thursday event for earthquake relief". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  24. ^ Morris, Elizabeth; Morris, Mark; Jewell, Judy; McRae, W. C. (February 26, 2007). Moon Oregon. Avalon Publishing. ISBN 978-1-56691-930-2. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  25. ^ Schroeder, Deeda (August 31, 2010). "Small Wonders". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  26. ^ Gottberg, John; Lopeman, Elizabeth (June 1, 2010). Best Places: Portland, 8th Edition. Sasquatch Books. ISBN 978-1-57061-699-0. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  27. ^ Ostgarden, Jo (August 3, 2010). Best Places Northwest, 17th Edition. Sasquatch Books. ISBN 978-1-57061-735-5. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  28. ^ Moker, Molly (2011). Fodor's Oregon. Fodor's Travel Publications. ISBN 978-1-4000-0511-6. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  29. ^ Zusman, Michael C. (May 24, 2016). "The Pearl's Hairy Lobster Is a Mess of Gold Leaf Dessert and Lobster Cubano". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
  30. ^ Vermillion, Allecia (July 17, 2018). "Petite Galerie Revives the Dining of Bygone Days". Seattle Metropolitan. Archived from the original on December 18, 2022. Retrieved December 18, 2022.
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